What You Need
| Tool | Recommendation | Budget |
|---|
| Soldering iron | Pinecil (USB-C, 65W) or TS100 | ~$30 |
| Solder | 63/37 or 60/40 rosin-core, 0.6-0.8mm | ~$5/roll |
| Flux | No-clean flux pen (MG Chemicals) | ~$5 |
| Brass wool | For tip cleaning (better than wet sponge) | ~$3 |
| Helping hands | Aven or generic with alligator clips | ~$10 |
| Solder wick | For desoldering mistakes | ~$3 |
| Ventilation | Small fan or open window | Free |
Technique
1. Heat the Joint, Not the Solder
Touch the iron tip to BOTH the pad and the component lead. Wait 1-2 seconds. Then feed solder into the joint — not the iron tip. The hot metal melts the solder, not the iron directly.
2. Through-Hole Soldering
- Insert component leads through PCB holes
- Bend leads slightly outward to hold component in place
- Touch iron to pad + lead for 1-2 seconds
- Feed solder into the joint until it flows and forms a shiny volcano shape
- Remove solder, then remove iron (in that order)
- Trim excess lead with flush cutters
3. Good vs Bad Joints
| Good Joint | Bad Joint | Cause |
|---|
| Shiny, concave | Dull, grainy (cold joint) | Iron too cold or moved during cooling |
| Smooth volcano | Ball sitting on pad | Not enough heat on pad |
| Wets both pad and lead | Solder only on lead | Iron not touching pad |
| Clean, no excess | Bridge to adjacent pin | Too much solder or iron too large |
Temperature Guide
| Task | Temperature |
|---|
| Through-hole (63/37 solder) | 300-330°C |
| Through-hole (lead-free) | 350-370°C |
| SMD / fine pitch | 280-300°C |
| Desoldering | +20°C above soldering temp |
| Ground planes / large pads | 350-380°C (more heat needed) |
Safety
- Lead is toxic — wash hands after handling solder. Use lead-free if concerned.
- Fumes are flux, not lead — but still irritate lungs. Use a fan or open window.
- Iron is 300+°C — it will burn skin instantly. Use a stand.
Practice
Start with a simple kit (blinking LED board, ~$5). Through-hole soldering is learnable in 30 minutes of practice.